Focus… Milan Fashion Week: Jil Sander SS 2013

It would be quite daunting for any designer to follow the universally acclaimed work of Raf Simons, but that was Jil Sander’s task upon returning to her own label for Spring Summer 2013 and she was up to the job. Starting with a flattened hourglass silhouette, Sander concentrated on what she knows best—minimal suiting and simple dresses, this time rendered without hard angles or excessive tailoring. Although they were devoid of embellishment, Spring’s bell-shaped skirts and round sleeve blouses could almost be folk-inspired, and along with light ribbed knit ski sweaters there was definitely an Alpine theme in play. Peasant tunics and smock dresses with oversized hip pockets were as humble as an advanced modernist like Sander can get, but iridescent dots bore a hint of Simons’ flashier use of texture—an unnecessary callback for a label clearly moving forward.

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